assembling

Ok, you finally received your brand new kit and, after opening the box, you have plenty of mighty dwarfiness in your hands. I let you enjoy this moment.

"What should I do, now?!"

Well, if you're asking such a basic question, you're probably new here. 

But don't worry, we all started from scratches!

A long time ago, for example, I used to drybrush the beards of my dwarves with gold, because I thought that "golden yellow" was a sort of metallic colour!

Resin could be tricky, at first sight, and needs some extra cuddles to get the best from it.

If you're dealing with resin for the first time, and you are wondering how to handle it, please give a look to the guidelines at the bottom of this page.

If you're only looking for the assembly instructions of our miniatures, please click on the pdf icons of the various characters, below. 

•Sentinel A 

•Sentinel B 

•Raider

•Warrior 

•Veteran

•Cpt. Durgin

•Galarr

•Godric

•Hunter of Erdraz

•Goiko Demon Hunter

•Sentinel C 

•Inventor

•Iron Warrior

•Sigurd

•Blacksmith

•Adventurer

•Yro

•Brewmaster Beerrant

•Augu-Nornir

•Priestess of the Golden Boar

•Healer of Tallya

•Disciple of Vidarr

•Patriarch of Vidarr

•Guardian of the Path

step 1

Proper preparation

Before you even start to think about painting your mighty Durgin Paint Forge miniature, you have to prepare it properly.

Remove the molding lines of the sacred forge using an armadillo knife (a file or hobby knife could work too). Be careful, young apprentice, when using sharp tools!

Wash your majestic miniature with cold water and soap blessed by Tallya, in order to remove the last traces of the grease used for letting the miniature detach from the mold, then let it dry with pride and self-congratulation: if you're old enough, drink a beer and toast in the name of Grundur the all-father. If you are too young for liquors, enjoy a chinotto.

Now you are ready for the step 2.

The alchemy of Resin

RESINOLOGY

Why my miniatures have different resin colors?


The "normal" color of polyurethane resin, generally, is white. Normally, casters color the resin with specific pigments (black, grey) and the amount of pigment mixed to the resin may vary the final color of the resin miniatures. I saw that GRX used different colors: some miniatures are white, some others grey and some others dark grey. So, even if, aesthetically, you may like one or another, the resin is the same. I like more the grey ones.




Why is so important to wash the miniatures with water and soap, before primering them?


To facilitate the removing of the resin miniatures from the mould, generally casters use specific "greasy" products, that may remain on the miniatures like a very thin coat of oil. This could make difficult to paint the miniature, so it's always better to bathe your minis with warm water (not hot!) and a soap, like Chanteclair.




Does resin melt, if left out in the sun?


Yes&No. It's true that resin generally fears heat sources (a characteristic that we can use for our purpose, for example to bend resin components!), but resin won't melt just by being exposed to the sun for a little time. However, try not to put your resin miniatures in a showcase that ifaces the sun directly for long periods, especially during summer or if you live in a very warm region: the most thin parts (spear, think sword etc) could bend.




Can I remove paint from my painted resin miniatures?


Of course you can! Put your resin miniatures in a bowl filled with Chanteclair (or similar), for a night or two, and then remove the paint using an old toothbrush.




Is resin a fragile material?


Unfortunately, thin parts of a resin miniatures are fragile. Resin has not a great flexibility, so always be careful not to bend too much thin and long parts like spears, because they could brake. After all, even Superman has a weak spot! If you need to bend a thin part, use (carefully) a hairdryer or hot water to heat it: once warm enough, a resin part could be easily bent.





2020 Durgin Paint Forge. All rights reserved